For a limited time, anyone who purchases a qualifying ENERGY STAR®-compliant, high-efficiency HVAC product in 2009 or 2010 will receive a tax credit worth 30% of upgrade costs, up to a $1,500 credit.

It’s the perfect opportunity to upgrade your home with an energy-efficient heating and cooling system plus get a major tax break too!

http://money.cnn.com/2009/02/26/real_estate/flooded_basement.moneymag/index.htm?postversion=2009022706 

Housepoint Inspections serves all three of these markets!

Article from cnn here:

http://money.cnn.com/galleries/2008/moneymag/0805/
gallery.resg_gainers.moneymag/2.html 

The credit is refundable, meaning you can get a check for what’s left after paying your taxes.

Cnn.com explains it well here:

http://money.cnn.com/2009/02/13/
real_estate/homebuyer_tax_credit_finalized/index.htm

http://optimalhomelocation.com/RealEstateTool.html 

Otherwise, pressure in the tank can build up so high that it eventually blows out the bottom of the tank and rockets upwards.  The explosion that happened in this story is not the first time this has happened.

Story here:
http://www.kpho.com/news/17189420/detail.html#-

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/24/garden/24granite.html?ex=1374638400&en=60959de
77427e35c&ei=5124&partner=permalink&exprod=permalink 

1)  Most houses have some aluminum wiring.  This can usually be found on your main service entry cable that comes into your panel box from the outside.  This cable is usually STRANDED ALUMINUM and is not a problem.

2)  Some houses have branch circuits (outlets and light switches) that are aluminum.  Aluminum branch wiring can be a problem.  Aluminum expands and contracts more that copper wiring, and this expansion and contraction can loosen up aluminum contacts with the outlets.  This has caused fire in the past.

The solution to this problem is to use custom outlets and switches made for aluminum so they will not become loose.  These outlets and switches should have a CO/ALR designation stamped on them.  So if you notice that you have aluminum branch wiring, make sure your outlets and switches are made for it.

Remember, the “big” stranded aluminum wires are not a problem.  This is likely because the space between the strands provides a space for the aluminum to expand and contract without damage.

http://gizmodo.com/358636/stairs-bookcase-actually-makes-me-want-to-move-to-london

Ice on a roof can be reduced by having proper ventilation in your attic space and proper insulation in your house.

Ideal roof ventilation allows air to flow in under the eaves and out near the ridge of the house. This flow of air helps to prevent temperature differentials on the roof that lead to ice formation.

And the insulation above your living space should be at least a foot deep. If yours is lower, consider rolling out some more or having some blown in. (Be sure that ventilation doesn’t get obstructed.)

Even the best insulated and ventilated roof will have ice problems when conditions are right. So a last line of defense is heating cables that melt off ice as it forms. They don’t always look great, but they look better than gutters hanging off or roof buckling up.

An ounce of prevention is always best. Pipes freeze when they are in the path of drafts or when they are near a poorly insulated outside wall. So consider replacing basement windows with glass-block windows to cut down on drafts. Make sure there is insulation all around the top of your basement walls in the cavities (along the rim joist.) Feel for air coming in around utility penetrations and dryer vents and insulate accordingly.

A second line of defense is to insulate your pipes themselves. Home stores sell foam sleeves that can be put over pipes.

When the pipes do freeze, try to thaw them using a hair dryer set on hot. To do this, you’ll have to try to trace out where the ice clog is. If there is a long stretch of pipe where the clog could be, start by warming up joints and turns in the pipe.

I do not recommend using a flame to thaw pipes, as their proximity to dry structural wood in the house could cause a bigger problem. And if you accidentally find yourself heating a gas pipe, you could be in a dangerous situation (although, you would probably end up with thawed-out water pipes.)

Structural Damage

Water that accumulates in the basement and stays there for months can wreak havoc on the structure of the house.  Check steel posts for excessive rust near the floor.  A good home inspector can help you analyze the seriousness of cracks in brick and concrete basement walls that could be major repairs.

Damage to Utilities

If water has accumulated in the basement, the furnace, hot water heater, washer and dryer, and electrical panel may have been seriously rusted, possibly beyond repair.

Damage from Humidity

An abandoned house can trap humidity.  An excessively humid house can lead to rusting out of the heating and air conditioning ducts, rust to electrical wiring, warping of dry-wall causing nail-pops and curved walls.

Plumbing Problems

Pipes can break during the winter making a huge mess if nobody’s home to turn off the water.  In addition, toilets that are not used regularly will tend to have mechanics that rot out and the toilets could run constantly.  Sinks may leak and not function properly.

Break-ins

Abandoned houses are playgrounds for teenagers.  Windows may have the locks or glass broken, doors may have had jams broken, garage doors could have broken mechanics from being forced open.

Pests

Bees, rodents, and more will make a house their home if they’re not actively kept out.

Just remember that everything deteriorates unless maintained, and while the bargain you get in purchasing an abandoned house could be significant, make sure you have a home inspector tell you how much really needs to be done for you to reclaim that property.

http://money.cnn.com/2007/06/01/real_estate/landscapingtips_
juneissue.moneymag/index.htm?postversion=2007060410

http://money.cnn.com/galleries/2007/real_estate/0703/
gallery.favorite_kitchens.toh/index.html

But the factor that stops many of us from remodeling our basements is water.  And for good cause.  Over 90% of basements in our area get water at one time or another.  This means that all the hard work of installing drywall could be wiped out with one flood.  Thousands of dollars spent on carpet could be lost.

But there are some simple steps you can take to minimize the water that comes in and the damage that could result.  If you want a fool-proof system, call in the professionals and prepare to spend some serious money.  But if a reasonable amount of safety is what you’re after, consider taking these steps:

1) Install a Sump-Pump Backup

Much of the basement flooding in our area occurs because a sump pump fails or loses power and doesn’t pump out the water that is trying to get above the floor.  If your sump pump runs consistently, it wouldn’t be wise to remodel a basement without a backup.  Battery backups can be installed, but if there is a long power outage those batteries can lose their life.  So I recommend a water-powered backup that will actually pump water out with water pressure. 

2)  Regrade the Exterior

Water often comes in basement walls because the soil outside is sloped toward the house.  Make sure that the soil outside slopes away from the house, ideally for 6′, so that all the water outside is channeled away.

3)  Divert Rainwater

Every house should have gutters and downspouts, and at the end of those downspouts there should be leaders, or tubes that divert water away from the house.  Splash pads alone don’t do the trick.  Leaders cost about $8. at local home stores.

4)  Relieve Water Pressure

If you have pressurized water coming through your walls, first do #2 and #3 above.  Then find the places the water is coming through and install weep pipes, small pipes that channel water down into the gutter around your basement floor.

5)  Drylock the Walls

If moisture coming in the walls is minimal, apply a coat of masonry water seal to keep out what is coming in.

6)  Watch the Windows

Water will often come in basement windows, so consider replacing them with glass-block windows  (But make sure you leave some way besides the main stairs that a person can get out in case of fire).  A window-well should be kept free from debris to keep water from filling up past the glass.

7)  Expect Some Water

When you remodel, even if you’ve covered your bases, there can still be occasional water problems.  Build with this in mind.  Install drywall so that it is cut off two inches above the floor, and then cover the gap with tall molding.  Drywall will absorb water that sits on it and be ruined, but wood molding can handle some water and is easier to replace than a section of drywall.  Install a thinner carpet that can be cleaned and dry out easily (shag is not good for basements!)  Build storage shelves and media centers to keep everything up off of the floor.

8)  Wait it Out

If you just got into a house, do all of these repairs and then wait at least a full year before you remodel.  You want to be able to see how your basement functions in all 4 seasons under every weather condition.  (If it is a dry year, wait another year to see how your basement handles normal water.)  Some basements will get several inches of water, but only once a year when the snow melts. 

There are many more steps you can take to be more sure that your basement will stay dry, but they’re higher priced and better left for experts.  Try these 8 steps first to see if you can do it yourself.